Tofo - Massingir - From sea to Limpopo

Yes, We were up early again. Last time to witness this beautiful sunrise...

 Back on the road, toward South Africa this time. Not via Maputo, but into the wilderness of Gaza Province. But first I had to overcome some other obstacles.

 Not this one, we did not need it. This is firewood stacked alongside the road, trees are probably going to be as scarce as in Malawi if they go on like this...

Not this one either, this is old Portuguese architectonial thought on progression. Now part of the heritage of the country, a somewhat neglected heritage.

Mozambican Marketing in action. We should try this at home!

My real obstacle was behind this bus. It was a traffic cop. He took all my money. And why? I drove into a village and reduced speed. When I saw the sign that marked the end of the village I picked up speed again. Just as I hit one hundred I was waved to the side by this very unfogiving officer. He explained I had to pay 4000 Mtn (100 EUR) on the spot. I did not have more than 2500, so het took that after a while of hasseling about going to the bank and retaining my drivers license. As it turns out, yu have to wait until the sign says you can go faster again, which was after a school in this case. Funny thing is though that these signs are missing in half the cases. 

But hey, that's progression, and a radar gun (worth about 250 EUR is a good investment. I dodged a few other speed traps and then we were near XaiXai again. KFC is in town! 

Luckily there are alternatives that give a bit more charm to the place

And some restoration project possibilities left.

 Interesting places along the coast, apart from Xai-Xai? I think Chidinguele could be a touristic hotspot, and Zanzala looks nice too.

But we went inland at this point. Toward the unknown, in the direction of Giriyondo, where you can cross into the Kruger.

Before Chokue (Chokwe) this sight. Apparently these are flood plains, so permanent structures are not worth erecting. Instead these tent-like structures were standing alongside little agricultural plots. Are they to be abandoned altogether when the rain comes in january? 

Further up the river it seems more organised, canals, dams and this wonderful contraption. It's a footbridge, too.

The countryside became more and more deserted, goats and a railroad crossing being the only distractions from miles and miles of bush. A good road by the way, far better than expected, all the way up to Massingir

And onto the Massingir Dam. Five kilometres of nice road, where you can not stop.

But we had to, because our number plate fell off at one of the many bumps.

And then, at the other side of the dam, or destination, Limpopo Game Park!

Unfortunately, we could not stay at Albufeira Campsite, we had been rebooked in Agua Pesqueira, a campsite some 30 kms into the park.

Which meant some driving on sandy dirt roads. Not so bad, actually, far better than the rocky stretches in other parts of the park.

The view was worth it!

First time we hade to use the emergency food I had bought when leaving South Africa. Meatballs and lentils it was, spiced up with garlic salt and peri-peri sauce. It did the trick, the kids loved it!

Tofo - Trip to Pansy and Porcos Island

We left early in the morning, and drove to the end of Barra, very near to Flamingo Bay resort, which is built on stilts. Wonder why? We were about to find out. A boat trip to Pig's Island was booked, we were to follow in the footsteps of Vasco da Gama, the great Portuguese explorer

After walking a few kilometre on a deserted beach we sighted our transport, a traditional dhow. These vessels are actually copies of the ones that sailed down here from Zanzibar Island, once a big muslim trade centre.

We waded a few hundred metres to get to the boat. Traditional, but very well built and sturdy, with a confident crew. It had to be, for we were about to embark on a 7 km trip accros the Imhambane Bay.

Our tour guides; some boys from the local village, brought this strange fruit aboard. I still do not know what it is. You only eat what is between the skin and the hard middle part. A few millimetres of strange, a bit sweety taste.I did not dislike it, but did not finish it either.

Traditional is not a lie around these parts. The rope was a nylon one, but the sails are cotton, and this way to tie the mainsheet is certainly not what we would do. But he was very careful, loosening it a bit as the wind picked up so he would be able to control the vessel. I'd love to give it a try some day.

We arrived at Ilha dos Porcos, and waded ashore through the mangrove forest that is forming there.

Yep, we visited another village. Nothing remarkable here, but this borehole. The water is not fresh, but it is used to wash up. A faster way then a walk to the shore. For drinking, rain water is collected at various places on the island.

Nothing like a beer bottle to remember you of home. Click on the picture if you do not recognize it instantly ;-)

Yep, it's bounty island if you want it to be....

Another spectacular picture taken with a mibile phone and binoculars (I promise to buy the first 10x zoom camaraphone available) It actually threads with its paws to shake up the critters on the bottom.

And this is probably how or boat was once fixed , too. Old fashioned caulking (yes, I looked it up too) with rope and tar. You beat the rope in with a chisel, it expands because of the water it sucks in and thus fills the gaps between the planks neatly.

Lunch. What's there not to like about Crab, Matapa and some shellfish? The kids were glad there was spaghetti and chips, too.

After lunch one of the locals offered to take some coconuts out of the tree for 15 Mtn, Sure he could. I gave him 20 and showed him the brazillian way of opening up a coconut.

Back to the boat.
the tide was low so it was a lomg walk out.

We had bought a little boat on the island. Don't they look alike?

Another dhow looked upon from our boat

Happy sailing

Something on her foot, we still do not know what it was. She'll recover nicely, probably

Landing on Panst Island, only visible on low tide.

It really resembles the Waddenzee in Holland, except for the much better wheather conditions.

An "Estrela do Mar", which I had never seen IRL before!

And then some more sailing

Happy faces, nice day!

(Trip booked for 5000 Mtn for the four of us. It turned out to be too much. The "guides"banked more than half of it, whilst the seamen from the dhow got no more than 500 for the day. Hope the'll sort that out some day. The islanders are very nice people, the rest seems to take advantage of that.)

Tofo - Quiet at the beach, 25 Km to the bank

The next morning I woke up early, and wittnessed the sun rise from the ocean. Beautiful! As it happened, I saw some strange movements on the horizon. What wuld that be? I found out later that day.

Bare is the regular footwear around here, as everything is covered with sand. Walk into town? Sand. Visit the market? Sand. Police Station? Sand.

This here is our cabin. Roofing is done with palm leaves, folded in a very clever way. We are sleeping under mosquito nets, but get bitten nonetheless. Deet spray, candles, scent, but still. I am so happy we are on Malanil - Malarone, because I would not want one of the kids to catch a malaria fever.

The lodge seen from the beach. Fatima's backpackers is ok. Not very, but ok. We actually scouted Bamboozi as well, and the municipal backpackers. Bamboozi will be nicer in high season, but was deserted now. Th e municipal backpackers has much nicer dorms, but was deserted, too. So we stayed at Fatima's, because everyone was there. Despite them telling you otherwise, only April and December are high season over here.

That's us! We were happy to have a few days of relaxing in front of us. A stroll down the beach was a perfect start.

Tijl found some wildlife here. Anice little crab. He had a blast seeing it run sideways.

Some boys came along with fresh oysters. We bought 5 for 100 Mtn. e still had his fins in hand as he took our money. How fresh can you get them? I took out my pocket knife and opened one for each of us, delicious




In the same style I decided to prepare lunch. Fatima's has a communal kitchen. Not great, but it is usable. Sinc there was no coal or wood available I put the grill over the gas stove. It kind of worked well, but some of the prawns remained undercooked; it was solved in a frying pan...

Gytha read some in a deck chair next to the lodges restaurant. Finally time to relax after all her work in Malawi. Kids playing aroud a bit with sand and swings.

Bad things about Tofo? Not many, but one is the absence of a decent ATM. The one at the gas staion between Tofo and Barra only accepts Visa, but no Maestro, so I had to drive all the way to Inhambane to find a Millenium Bank. It issues up to 8000 Mtn per day. It gave me an oppotunity to look at the city's nice colonial architecture as well. It really resembles a sleepy Portuguese village.

Driving back I had this wonderful setting sun in my rear mirror (click on the image fo bigger pic) So I stopped to take tis pic. End of day, end of a very nice and relaxed day!